A very un-African New Year

I still find myself thinking of Kiwoko Hospital in Uganda frequently, recalling the life that I lived there over two years ago with fondness. One obvious and major difference between Edinburgh and Uganda this New Year has been the weather – for once the UK has had a proper cold spell with winter weather that has now lasted over two weeks! I suspect my friends at the Equator have been suffering with the beginning of the dry season, temperatures of 28-30 degrees (Celcius), and a distinct lack of water. Here we’ve had more snow than I’ve seen in Edinburgh in over 15 years, repeated snow-falls, temperatures dropping to -14, and plenty of ice. It makes a nice change from the usual dark, wet, windy pseudo-winter that we usually suffer each year, and I’m all in favour of it, especially as it happened over Christmas.

New Year was spent in the middle of Edinburgh’s Hogmanay Street Party for the first time this century! We wrapped up well, took a hip flask of a rather nice Tobermory 10 year old, and joined the crowd for some live music, dance and banter. In fact midnight itself was seen in with a rather flamboyant Cuban band and some Latino music. And the fireworks were magnificent. It turned into a late night as we went on to another friend’s party, very handy at a flat overlooking Edinburgh Castle. I’ve had much quieter New Years in the recent past, so it’s good to remind myself that I can still enjoy myself even as I get older!!!

My friend Mark from Uganda wouldn’t have coped with the cold. I Kiwoko hospital again in October, and brought him back for a few weeks to the UK, which was a fantastic experience for both of us. It’s surprising how much you can squeeze into a short space of time. I had only ten days in Uganda on this occasion, but found myself working (Dr Peter tends to take some time off if he knows I’m visiting!), and it was good to find a couple of patients specifically attending to see me. One was a lady with intermittent jaundice due to gallstones and I was able to unblock her bile duct and remove her gallbladder – an operation the local surgeons wouldn’t have been comfortable doing. The other was a patient with swallowing difficulties. I was able to use the Endoscopy facilities that were still working well (see previous notes for details of setting up an Endoscopy Unit in 2007), and unfortunately found he had a large obstructing oesophageal tumour. Here in the UK we would have seen if the tumour had spread by means of a CT scan before deciding on surgical or oncological treatment. However, this man couldn’t afford the cost of a bus to Kampala, let alone the CT scan (albeit only costing £15), and I didn’t think that taking on such a major operation as an oesophagectomy without the back-up of an intensive care bed was very sensible. The best I could offer was a plastic stent to allow him to swallow food again – fortunately I had brought one of these out with me previously, and this was successfully put in place. It’s certainly not a cure, but hopefully he’ll at least have some quality of life over the next six months before the tumour spreads further.

Back in the UK with Mark, we found all sorts of things to amaze a person from Uganda who’s never travelled outside of his country before! I think the whole experience was a little overwhelming, but he went home with lots of photographs and a better understanding of our part of the world – people in Uganda get many visitors from the West, but have a number of inaccurate preconceptions of how life is here. Hopefully Mark will be able to address this. He was particularly impressed at our street-lighting and the orderly nature of the traffic on our roads, and amazed at the cost of living.

We managed a few days sightseeing in Edinburgh and nearby Scotland, a few days in London, a week at my UK hospital, and finally meeting up with several UK friends who managed to visit while he was here. Particular highlights included staying next-door to the Queen (a hotel near Buckingham Palace), taking in a show (Grease seemed to be fairly straightforward to follow), and of course tube and train travel. The main reason for his visit was to get some experience of Theatre Nursing in a UK hospital, and my colleagues at Edinburgh Royal Infirmary were very friendly and willing to show him how we do things here – hopefully he’ll have several thoughts that may be helpful back at Kiwoko. The main surgical difference he noticed – laparoscopic (or keyhole) surgery, which he found very exciting as its not seen in the hospitals he’s been in in Uganda.

But here I am at the beginning of 2010, with my final Surgical Exams in less than six weeks. After that I plan to get out and enjoy myself a bit more with skiing trips, mountaineering trips and social outings planned! I’ll need to focus then on what I do when my contract here ends in October – the options probably being to find a Consultant Surgeon job here in Scotland, or to head back out to work in Uganda again... not an easy decision – I’ll let you know how it works out!

Steve